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	<title>Comments on: Biochar kiln progress</title>
	<atom:link href="http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/</link>
	<description>ben and deb&#039;s farm in ahualoa</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 24 Sep 2011 21:00:59 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: new_biochar_land</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-1088</link>
		<dc:creator>new_biochar_land</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 22 Jan 2011 19:25:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-1088</guid>
		<description>You must read this
“The Biochar Revolution” with “The Biochar Solution”
http://biochar-books.com/
The Biochar Revolution collects the results and best practical advice that these entrepreneurs have to offer to the biochar community. When practice and theory advance to the point where they meet in the middle, then we will truly see a biochar revolution.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You must read this<br />
“The Biochar Revolution” with “The Biochar Solution”<br />
<a href="http://biochar-books.com/" rel="nofollow">http://biochar-books.com/</a><br />
The Biochar Revolution collects the results and best practical advice that these entrepreneurs have to offer to the biochar community. When practice and theory advance to the point where they meet in the middle, then we will truly see a biochar revolution.</p>
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		<title>By: Peter</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-474</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jul 2010 08:37:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-474</guid>
		<description>Thanks for making this info. available.  I also have a lot where I&#039;m living on the Big Island and this inspires me to want to try it.  I remember seeing charcoal pits before, now I regret not have studied harder how they were doing it, if I recall it took about 3-5 days to do it in a 10&#039;x20&#039; pit.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for making this info. available.  I also have a lot where I&#8217;m living on the Big Island and this inspires me to want to try it.  I remember seeing charcoal pits before, now I regret not have studied harder how they were doing it, if I recall it took about 3-5 days to do it in a 10&#8242;x20&#8242; pit.</p>
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		<title>By: ben</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-429</link>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jun 2010 04:03:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-429</guid>
		<description>Melissa, I don&#039;t recommend the double metal barrel approach.  1. It requires finding or manufacturing barrels of different sizes, 2. It limits you to output size of the smaller barrel and 3. you want the outer layer to insulate, to hold in heat, and a metal barrel is very poor for that.  I recommend instead an approach like you see here in my blog, with a single barrel (or other metal chamber open at the bottom), surrounded by any kind of insulated chamber you can build - earthen, concrete blocks, bricks, it does not matter, anything is better than a thin metal barrel.  Consult my notes at http://ahualoa.net/ag/notes_biochar.html and feel free to give a phone call (for contact info click &#039;Directions&#039; in the right.)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Melissa, I don&#8217;t recommend the double metal barrel approach.  1. It requires finding or manufacturing barrels of different sizes, 2. It limits you to output size of the smaller barrel and 3. you want the outer layer to insulate, to hold in heat, and a metal barrel is very poor for that.  I recommend instead an approach like you see here in my blog, with a single barrel (or other metal chamber open at the bottom), surrounded by any kind of insulated chamber you can build &#8211; earthen, concrete blocks, bricks, it does not matter, anything is better than a thin metal barrel.  Consult my notes at <a href="http://ahualoa.net/ag/notes_biochar.html" rel="nofollow">http://ahualoa.net/ag/notes_biochar.html</a> and feel free to give a phone call (for contact info click &#8216;Directions&#8217; in the right.)</p>
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		<title>By: Melissa Green</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-427</link>
		<dc:creator>Melissa Green</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jun 2010 17:29:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-427</guid>
		<description>Hi Ben!  I&#039;m looking for some design schematics for a double barrel oven design for a community demonstration project in Hampton VA.  Have you run across anything besides some pictures and instruction like &quot;Put some holes in the bottom&quot;?  This is a bunch of engineers so winging it means everyone will write and run complicated thermodynamic modeling program so we can argue about it in a meeting.  I&#039;m really trying to avoid that whole thing.

Thanks!

Melissa</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Ben!  I&#8217;m looking for some design schematics for a double barrel oven design for a community demonstration project in Hampton VA.  Have you run across anything besides some pictures and instruction like &#8220;Put some holes in the bottom&#8221;?  This is a bunch of engineers so winging it means everyone will write and run complicated thermodynamic modeling program so we can argue about it in a meeting.  I&#8217;m really trying to avoid that whole thing.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Melissa</p>
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		<title>By: ben</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-425</link>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 20:46:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-425</guid>
		<description>For a lot more information, see the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://biochar.pbworks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gardening with Biochar FAQ!&lt;/a&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For a lot more information, see the excellent <a href="http://biochar.pbworks.com/" rel="nofollow">Gardening with Biochar FAQ!</a></p>
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		<title>By: Julie</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-423</link>
		<dc:creator>Julie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 16:35:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-423</guid>
		<description>Thanks deb and ben!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks deb and ben!</p>
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		<title>By: ben</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-422</link>
		<dc:creator>ben</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 10:08:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-422</guid>
		<description>Yes Julie, there are advantages to &quot;pre-charging&quot; the char with nutrients.  Plain char will have long-term benefits of retaining nutrients and boosting microbes, but if you want immediate results, charged char is better.  Popular methods are:
1. Mixing the char into warm, live compost and letting it sit.  Char will absorb nutrients.
2. Soaking the char in a nutrient solution, for example fish emulsion fertilizer, or urine.  Urine actually has astonishing levels of N-P-K, if the yuck factor doesn&#039;t bother you, it&#039;s an excellent free source.
You could pour water into a bucket of that fresh horse manure i see on your blog, and use that aqueous solution to charge char.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes Julie, there are advantages to &#8220;pre-charging&#8221; the char with nutrients.  Plain char will have long-term benefits of retaining nutrients and boosting microbes, but if you want immediate results, charged char is better.  Popular methods are:<br />
1. Mixing the char into warm, live compost and letting it sit.  Char will absorb nutrients.<br />
2. Soaking the char in a nutrient solution, for example fish emulsion fertilizer, or urine.  Urine actually has astonishing levels of N-P-K, if the yuck factor doesn&#8217;t bother you, it&#8217;s an excellent free source.<br />
You could pour water into a bucket of that fresh horse manure i see on your blog, and use that aqueous solution to charge char.</p>
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		<title>By: deb</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-421</link>
		<dc:creator>deb</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 10:01:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-421</guid>
		<description>Hi Julie:. Yes, you can buy &quot;all natural lump hardwood charcoal&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cowboycharcoal.com/contact.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cowboy Charcoal&lt;/a&gt;. The trick is to wet it down with nutrient solution and smash it to tiny, tiny bits (use mask!) by hand with rubber mallet or use chipper/shredder.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Julie:. Yes, you can buy &#8220;all natural lump hardwood charcoal&#8221; <a href="http://www.cowboycharcoal.com/contact.htm" rel="nofollow">Cowboy Charcoal</a>. The trick is to wet it down with nutrient solution and smash it to tiny, tiny bits (use mask!) by hand with rubber mallet or use chipper/shredder.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Julie</title>
		<link>http://ahualoa.net/eggsntea/2010/05/biochar/comment-page-1/#comment-419</link>
		<dc:creator>Julie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 30 May 2010 17:58:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://washedashore.com/eggsntea/?p=389#comment-419</guid>
		<description>So the charcoal has to be soaked in a nutrient solution still? What kind of solution? Should i just stay tuned ; )

Could purchased charcoal be used the same way?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>So the charcoal has to be soaked in a nutrient solution still? What kind of solution? Should i just stay tuned ; )</p>
<p>Could purchased charcoal be used the same way?</p>
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